Friday, May 1, 2009

Zhongzhou

Campus has emptied out for Mayday.  When China has a major holiday, many people travel, and in China many people means wall-to-wall crowds on trains and at any popular destination.  I thought it best to remain home but, “You don't really have to stay in Kaifeng for the whole holiday actually,” Yufeng e-mailed Thursday night. “How about a small outing to Zhengzhou tomorrow?” She suggested we visit the Henan Museum. I’d heard it was closed for renovation but she insisted that it was open. Turns out we were both right.
I met her by Di Mar, the East Gate, where the day’s narrative was foreshadowed by a group of community musicians who had gathered to do a concert in the park under the old city walls.
We took a new bus line to the provincial capital, about an hour from Kiafeng.  Yufeng tells me she doesn't plan very well, a trait she says is endemically Chinese.  She makes it up as she goes along and asks questions and directions of any willing ear.  People are always obliging.  I find the Chinese treat you pretty much as a blank which is understandable in a 1.3 billion person sea, but when you're dealing one-on-one they are polite and helpful.  
There was a long line at the museum. Must be open! After lunch Yufeng found that we could jump the line by buying tickets to see an afternoon concert of traditional music.  ine, we’ll spend a couple of hours viewing the exhibits and then the show.
Except that only two galleries were open, but what pieces we saw are exquisite. One of the many joys of an extended visit is the chance to explore China’s rich artistic heritage and long history
Yufeng suggested we check out the city center which was as jammed as… well, as a Chinese city center on a national holiday. Back at the museum we were part of a small audience in a new auditorium that enjoyed the concert of traditional music, mostly from the Tang Dynasty (618-907 C.E.), considered one of the high points of Chinese history. The short program was worth every bit the 15 yuan (about US$2) ticket. Beautiful costumes, tight playing by dedicated musicians, fine lighting, a thoroughly professional and heartfelt performance.
Back to Kaifeng, dinner near campus at a small restaurant new to both of us with the usual great food—really good corn soup.  A nice outing, just another day in China.  Thanks, Yufeng.

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