Spring trip!

Join me on a spring trip to Israel and Jordan! Registration is open NOW! I'll post updates and participants as warranted.

Let's go!

Russia

Impressions of Russia... formed and limited by a 10-day visit spent for the most part in the two largest and likely most advanced cities...

I was told that Russians tend to be guarded and found this to be true. They are helpful when asked but I really wished we had had opportunity for more personal relationships. Our guides were really the only Russians with whom we had extended contact. Both of them took a while to loosen up but were warm and funny when they did.

While for the peasantry misery was a step up, Russian wealth of the royalty has to be seen to be believed. The palaces and collections of art, jewelry, table services, carriages, etc., reduced as they are by the years, made me understand better than ever the revolutionaries. After viewing the Armory in the Kremlin I was ready to sign up with the Bolsheviks.

On the other hand, it was heartening to visit the Park of Fallen Idols and see the statues of Lenin, Stalin, and others relegated to being historical curiosities. However, the looming hulk of Lubyanka, the old HQ for the Soviet security apparatus ( variously Cheka, NKVD, & KGB, now FSB) is a reminder of how heavily history sits on this landscape. I do wish we could have gone inside, just to the basement to see where

Old traditions remain... the Russians still retreat in the summer to their countryside homes (dachas). Although we traveled a fine highway to a couple of the "Golden Ring" historic towns near Moscow, the guides often referred to the generally bad condition of roads in Russia. That's easily understood in so vast a land, but it points to continuing infrastructure challenges. I imagine that in winter villages are snowed in for long periods just as they have been forever.

Game meats are often on the restaurant menus, e.g. venison and rabbit. Russian cuisine is not especially vegetarian-friendly. My favorites included the borscht (pronounced without the "t'), both hot and cold, and the blini, Russian pancakes or crepes with a wide choice of fillings. Potatoes and beets are among the most commonly served vegetables. The closer to the equator, the spicier the cuisine, don't you think? The opposite is also true, and I never saw a hot pepper. Ah, but the Russians do love sour cream!

AND it's the only country I've ever been where a souvenir shop offers free tea, coffee, and shots of vodka!

In Russia

We've done too much for a play-by-play, and a week is just enough time for a handshake with Russia. There have been many surprises. The Russians are very proud of their history. I wonder if that has always been the case or there is a concerted effort to reclaim the past from the ideological straitjacket of what people here call "the Soviet time." Like their counterparts in China, the current generation knows only a relative growth of freedom and increasing prosperity, although both are unevenly spread.

The Russian Church has certainly made a huge comeback. Old churches are rebuilt and refurbished and services seem to be well-attended.

Even the forewarning weather reports did not completely prepare us for some of the blast furnace heat we experienced in Moscow on Wednesday. We drove out to the countryside on Tuesday through the fire zone. A pall of smoke hangs over the whole region.

Here in St. Petersburg the weather is cooler and the air cleaner. This city is very Western as billed. Stalin's pernicious influence on architecture and design spared this historic gem, and so it is reminiscent of Paris and Prague—truly a beautiful city.

The Russians are helpful but a bit aloof, the food is good but pricey, and the vodka is cheap. We have a few more days and back to the USA.