Hey Sports Fans

Cavs fans:  check out whose picture is above the doorway of a downtown Kaifeng sporting goods store.  He's very well known here.  (You can click any picture on this blog to enlarge)

Kids

The kids all have English names.  L to R:  Veronica, Peach, Fannie (aka E.T. b/c she's a little spacey), Iris, and Elvin.  

I met some of my freshmen students at the pub two blocks from campus, the only one in the vicinity of this 20,000 strong campus.  They're all from Henan Province, which with 95 million people is the most populous and among the less prosperous in China.  I offered to buy beer all the way around.  One was happy to accept, two shared a beer, and the others limited themselves to the free tea.  Cheap dates!  Two are 17, having started primary school early, the rest are 19.  The teetotalers told told me that they were not old enough to drink.  One told me her parents forbid her to drink.  I told them that when American kids go off to college they tend to get a little wild, but she said that she could not lie to her parents.  Others took the time-honored "what they don't know" approach.  This new generation has grown up under the reform as China has opened up to capitalism, investment, and the world, and there are signs of change.  One of the kids referred to something us boomers remember well, "the generation gap."  In so many ways China is similar to the USA in the 1950s.  Maybe it's edging towards its own sixties.

The next day I got a text that read in part, "I just wanna tell you that my friends are very happy today. They all like you very much, so they give you a name: Pao Pao, and it means bubble and it's round and funny.  They all think you are kind. We all love you!"  A bubble, round and funny?  Maybe they think I'm Santa Claus!

We were in a shop downtown and two teens began to speak with us, obviously eager to practice their English.  We were probably the first Westerners with whom they'd spoken or perhaps ever seen.  Americans are a particular object of curiosity and fascination.  The Chinese seem to love the camera.  Before we parted I asked if I could take their picture and as you can see they went right into posing mode.  Behind them are two English teachers from Beloit College in Wisconsin.  That's Steve (from Hawaii, like Barack Obama as he always says) on the left, and Mike of Chicago on the right.  Mike has one of those silver horseshoe piercings hanging out of his nostrils, an object of great fascination to the Chinese.

Welcome, Colony

Chinese yogurt (here pronounced "yogur") is a little sweet and very good. One can buy it in plastic jugs or bags. It is always beneficial in my opinion to ingest a good bacteria colony!

A Student E-Mail

I started the American Popular Culture course with a survey of American values. I want to share a response I received from a student.  I'm sure you'll be as impressed as I by the insight, maturity, and quality of expression of a freshman writing in a second language. I have made only a few spelling corrections. The wording is entirely the student's.

Dear Professor,
It was an honor for me to attend your course. I’m XXX, a freshman who majors in English. The brief glance of American popular culture you gave us really impressed me a lot. In return, I’d like to share some of my superficial view on Chinese values.
You said that America is a democratic country which citizens have strong passion for politics, while Chinese seems to have less interests in participating in political affairs. They care more about their own lives, families, especially their own children. Maybe having gone through a long period of feudal society, it appears that Chinese lack sense of host more or less. But Chinese is absolutely a patriotic nation. When Wenchuan Earthquake happened, the whole nation focused their eyes on the disaster area, helping the victims of the calamity heart and soul. When torch-relay got obstructed abroad, the overseas got together to protect the relay. Besides, the Beijing Olympic Games wouldn't be successfully held without the unyielding support of the Chinese. All these show the great cohesive force of sharing suffering.
As the generations of Confucius, living and working peace and contentment is our desire. So the Chinese wouldn’t bully the other countries. Instead, they long for harmonious coexistence, renewing old friendships and establishing new contacts, just like a family. To safeguard world peace and promote common development is their desire, they hope that one day can beat swords into ploughs.
The Chinese civilization has always given prominence to unremitting self-improvement, reform and innovation. As an ancient Chinese motto puts it, “As Heaven keeps vigor through movement, a gentleman should unremittingly practice self-improvement.” It is their perseverance, determination, stamina that enable the Chinese nation grow after surviving numerous setbacks and adversity. China is a country with large population, people value their precious opportunities. I think it is the main reason why China has developed so swiftly since the reform and opening-up.
The Chinese nation is also good at learning. Perhaps you had already felt it since you stepped into our university. Students worked hard day and night in order to get higher degree and have better future. Many of them think that only getting a higher degree can change their destinies.(though I think the skill and the ability are the power).  Their families put a large sum of money on their children's education. But education in modern times has acquired a kind of snob values.
The Chinese is also a thrift nation. Unlike the US, which has a fairly sound social security system, China is a developing country after all. Besides, China thrifty is Chinese traditional virtue. They’d rather save the money in the bank than make investments to get much higher rewards especially during the financial crisis.
You said that Americans believe that God guide their destinies. While in China expect some religious people, most people believe gods, but they don't care who the god is .It seems that they're some sort of superstitious, but is there anyone who doesn't want to be blessed by god?
China is one that has continued uninterrupted for more than 5000 years. The distinct cultural tradition of the Chinese nation that developed in the long course of history has exerted a strong influence on China. Chinese values are deeply rooted in Chinese culture. So it is difficult for me to present all-around Chinese values. I just tell my superficial views and I'd like to explore more through books and personal experiences. I’m looking forwards to getting further communication with you so that I can get a better understanding of Chinese and American culture through their discrepancy.
P.S: here are some of my questions about American culture.
1) It is said that art is a mirror, Can the Hollywood movie can truly reflect American culture? if yes, could you please list some.
2) why TV Shows are so popular in the US?
3) what's the advantages of American education, compared to China ?

Random observations

Kaifeng is cleaner!  The students returned and so did regular street sweeping.  This is a Yellow River plains city so it is always a little dusty and gritty.

China is fairly typical for a developing nation, where any job that can be done by one person can be done just as well by three or four.  There are large staffs at the parks, including a couple of guards at each gate, doorkeepers who dole out the keys at the academic buildings, and a flock of guards at the south gate of the university who don't seem to stop or check anybody.  There are an infinite number of shops and stands.  How did this country ever even try to enforce a socialist economy?  The people are natural entrepreneurs and unbelievably hard workers.  They're open for business and outside in the cold or in underheated buildings for uncountable hours every day, seven days a week, patiently waiting for the next customer and cheerful when he comes.  America, remember the wise words of Satchel Paige: "Don't look back.  Someone might be gaining on you."

Kaifeng needs to be convinced of the renewing effects of a paint job.  The decor-free restaurants that surround the university are potential customers.  The university could set the example.  I've never been in a gloomier library, desperately in need of bright walls.  Funny, the Chinese at times exhibit a keen aesthetic and at others appear oblivious to the dingiest surroundings.  Sherwin-Williams, get on it!

Two students took me to the dining hall.  The food is displayed cafeteria-style in large pans behind a glass wall.  White-smocked masked workers put your choices in a bowl and hand them to you through a hole.  Students pay by swiping a card.  Even mediocre food is good but the surroundings are dull.  Paint!

The lower-rung restaurants have small disposable chopsticks and I shudder to think about how much wood is used every day in China with these throwaways.  I'm trying to remember to carry my own pair when I go out.  Think globally, eat Chinese, act locally.

No salt on the tables.  In fact, seasonings are rare.  Some restaurants put out hot pepper seeds.  A sweet vinegar is used for dumpling dipping.  I haven't seen any soy sauce.  I suspect that's a southern Chinese thing.  Really, the food is usually fine as it is.

700,000 or so people in the city and I am told there is one movie theater somewhere.  "There used to be four," I was informed.  In 1950s America the advent of television caused thousands of theaters to close.  Here it's the Internet.  The Chinese download everything.  Any movie, some still in theaters in the States, television shows and series, just about anything.  One of the Beloit kids hosted a small group for beer, bai jo (Chinese turpentine-like whiskey—in this area Scotland and Kentucky need not fear the competition), and the newly-downloaded "W."  One person has just obtained "Generation Kill," another is making his way through season five of "The Office" and offered me a bootleg DVD of "Mad Men" one and two.  Jackie is a big fan of gangster and crime flicks (his favorite actor is Al Pacino).  I recommended three to him yesterday.  He's already downloaded them.  Very popular among Henan University students:  "Gossip Girls" and even more, "Friends."  "Prison Break" is a hit.  The Beloit teachers have their students act out the episodes in their conversational English classes.  I attended Mike's class.  He first showed an entire episode.  The students had been given scenes and they acted them out, complete with colloquial prison dialogue.  You assign these kids something they do it.

I'm starting to think like an ex-pat, equating a yuan with a dollar.  So I ate lunch today and thought, "Man, 14 yuan. Kind of expensive."  Yeah, I spent $2.00.

I gotta go, but

Hmmm...  does this mean I have to take up smoking to use the toilet?  

Shan-Shaan-Gan Guild Hall, Kaifeng, China

Food report

As you have probably heard, watered-down American Chinese food is no better than a distant cousin to its glorious origins.  The food is so much better here than whatever you are likely to be getting locally.  Every place has its own recipes.  Contrary to popular legend, so far I haven't noticed the Chinese eating anything hideously weird, but there are some oddities here and there (pause to consider that some of the... uh, crap Americans eat must strike others as pretty strange.  Funyons?  Footers?  That gluey glop served with nachos?).  Although the concept of vegetarianism is not widely known or embraced, I'm eating quite well.

When eating in groups, a large variety of dishes is ordered.  If you come to China, you MUST use chopsticks. There is no alternative unless you want to carry your own fork and be a complete spectacle (and a dork.  Use the damn sticks).

Everyone eats from the common dishes.   Each diner gets a small plate, about the size of the one we put under a teacup.  You eat over this as you transfer your latest chopstick acquisition to your person.

I've had several tofu dishes including tofu with cabbage and tofu in sauce.  The sauce is always good here.  Noodles are popular and delicious.  There's a little hole-in-the-wall near campus where I get a bowl of dan mien, noodles with vegetables and a peanutty sauce, as a light lunch for 2 yuan (US 30 cents).  

Street food is very popular.  The university is walled and there are three gates--east, west, and south.  Outside the west gate at night there is a bevy of carts purveying food.  I've had fried bread, like a pita, fried with an egg and vegetables inside--delicious.  Top it off with a sweet potato from the big steamer carts and it's a cheap lunch (45 cents altogether).  I found one cart where a lady fried quail eggs and put them on a stick.  Good snack.  My son was disgusted when I told him, but you if eat chicken eggs these are just the same thing in a smaller package, very nutritious I'm told.

Chinese serve hot water with the meal.  At first I was a bit taken aback but you don't want ice--the tap water is not potable. This way you know the water is clean and it cools quickly, but I don't mind it hot.

 I haven't seen any loaves of breads but there are little bakeries that sell buns.  They're usually 15-30 cents each and are delicious.

Then there's beer.  Sudsheads, see the nine pack?  I paid $2.25 for the whole thing.

 Recently I went out to eat with Mike, Marta, and Steve, the three teachers from Beloit College.  We had a chicken dish, two bowls of dumplings, another meat dish, eggplant, tofu, a salad, and each drank a beer.  $6.75 total for the whole meal! 

So far I've eaten everything and been healthy and happy.  I'm frequenting local restaurants, little places with battered tables and backless stools.  No gastrointestinal disorders at all, knock on wood.  I've long held that in far-off lands the traveler's best friend is yogurt.  I have some on hand at all times.

Come on over, the eatin's fine.

Kaifeng... first impressions

Kaifeng is a lot different from Beijing. The capital has, at least at its center, become a world city. It is one loud and vast insistence that China is arriving as a global power.

Kaifeng is considered a small city. I get varying population estimates but it seems to be around 700,000, better than twice the size of the Akron metro area. It is dwarfed by the nearby provincial capital Zhongzhou (pronounced jongjoe) which has about seven million. Never heard of it, have you? Yet it would be the second largest city in the USA! One story I hear is that Kaifeng should have boomed after World War II, but Zhongzhou had been bombed to rubble and therefore could be rebuilt anew according to the government's plans—always a factor in a country that has a tradition of strong central control.

Kaifeng is a lot grubbier than the polished capital. Near the Yellow River, it is a dusty flood plain city with crumbling sidewalks and narrow dirt alleys. At times there is an astounding amount of litter on its streets and the waterways look even worse abused than some of the "cricks" used to be in my native Appalachian Ohio. The area around the school is a jumble of street stalls and closet-sized shops and restaurants. Although I'm told Westerners are unusual here, the people are polite enough to ignore and accept our presence. Whoever I've had dealings with have been friendly and polite with ready smiles.

The campus is a bit of a mix of traditional and modern styles, not unlike The University of Akron. I guess they're a good match in many ways, two large urban institutions working hard to improve. The student body of 40,000 is split between this campus, founded in 1912, and a new campus about eight kilometers away, very stark in a new concrete zone. The old campus has some funk and will probably be very pretty when spring sets in--hopefully soon because it's gotten a bit cold and the Chinese heat buildings at a minimal level. Score them hardy!

The people here at Henan University have been kind to the point of embarrassment. I could fill this post with anecdotes about how I've been made to feel welcome. All I can say is watch what you say around Chinese people, they will proceed to do whatever they can to fulfill your wishes. I understand now what my friend Dr. Lou Ritz meant when he referred to his two-week speaking tour of China as a "transformative experience." In less than a week the Chinese have already taught me a lot about hospitality.

My assistant Ms. Zhang and her friend Dwayu took me to a Buddhist Temple. That's them at the entrance. We burned a sheaf of incense in prayer for a good semester. Whatever the monks are doing with their time, cleaning the temple toilets is not among their interests.

Among the "foreign experts" are three graduates of Beloit College. Beloit is a small College of Wooster-like liberal arts school that has a relationship with Henan to provide English teachers. It's a great experience for the kids (as I think of them). Mike and Marta can speak Chinese very well and Steve is learning as he goes, having made great progress.

I didn't get my schedule until Friday. I thought it would be three courses meeting twice a week, but I've got six different classes. At Wayne I have three courses and about 100-150 students a semster. I'll have to radically condense material to cover all of Western history in the time allowed. With about 180 students I figure there will be a snowstorm of papers to grade in June when I wrap up.

I'm at the door to my room in the photo. I'm now teaching my first classes. More on that soon... And foodies, I'm not forgetting you. I'll post a culinary report also.

Wish Lanterns

My first night in Kaifeng I saw people writing wishes on orange paper.  The air inside is heated with a candle and then the lantern is launched into the air.  I paid 10 yua ($1.50) to send a wish for a good semester.  Mike wrote, Marta helped hold, I photoed, and off it went.

Pictures

For a short summary of the Beijing phase in pictures go to http://picasaweb.google.com/PackLitePaul and choose the Paul@The Wall & More album

Beijing

Greetings from Kaifeng,,, but more on that later.
Due to the visa snafu, I had only two days in Beijing and was determined to score as much as I could of the Big Four. I’ll spare you the minute-by-minute for a general summary of my introduction to China.
Beijing is a very different place from what it was 20 or perhaps even 10 years ago. It looks as though a giant redevelopment reaper has scythed most of what was the center and replaced it with wide, i.e., very wide boulevards and gleaming new buildings. Maybe it is still enjoying the effects of the Olympic makeover. The fabled pollution was nothing more than a haze during my short stay, not nearly as bad as Los Angeles was when I lived there in the early seventies. Two days, however, is scarcely time enough to draw a valid conclusion.
I stayed at Beijing Downtown Backpackers Association. The good: location in historic neighborhood and very inexpensive (single room $25/night). Clientele is young. To describe the staff as helpful and friendly is to disservice it with understatement. The not-so-good: it’s a hostel, bare and spare, so if you want comfort and charm, look elsewhere. My room was nothing more than a bed, a table + bathroom. If you are interested go to http://www.backpackingchina.com.
The street is basically an alley about a car-and-a-half width. There are many restaurants and shops that seemed to be frequented more by Chinese than the few Westerners in the area. Even if you stay elsewhere the neighborhood is worth a visit if you have time. This is an example of the hutongs that once made up much of Beijing.
BTW the staffer with whom I had the most contact is a young woman called Apple. Apparently many Chinese who work with foreigners take an English name that either echoes their real name or they simply pick their favorite animal or food. We have a rough equivalent of this with all the self-applied appellations sported in hip-hop culture.
The Great Wall is an absolute must and the hostel offered access to a guided hike along a less-frequented section. We left before 7:00 AM for the 2 ½ drive. Climbing a steep set of steps, I realized this was going to be a lot tougher than I had anticipated. Thus ensued eight of the toughest kilometers I’ve ever walked. Admittedly with one bum knee and one hip replacement I ain’t what I useta be but the constant up and down over the undulating artifact ensured that by the end I was less aware of fulfilling a long-held desire than simply focusing on putting one protesting foot in front of the other. Take this hike only if you’re in excellent condition especially in the lower extremities.
Still the magnificence of the Wall was overwhelming. That the Chinese constructed this astounding fortification while Europe was emerging from the Middle Ages is a weighty testament to their engineering abilities.
I was shot for the evening. Still jet lagged, I had just enough energy to get dinner and a most gratifying massage. I went for legs only, then the masseuse offered me Chinese cup therapy. Oh well, in for a penny… this consisted of heating glass bowls and sticking them on my legs. Other than producing some bright round welts I’m not sure what the purpose is.
My second and last day in Beijing I checked two other items off the must-see list. In the morning it was the Forbidden City, as vast and spectacular as advertised. I will savor another viewing of The Last Emperor, the only film ever made on site. No more due to worries about the effects of the kliegs on the antique paint jobs.
Some kind of guide is necessary and while I was headed to the audio I was approached by an eager young man with good English. I took a chance and he proved personable and knowledgeable, well worth the $30 for both our admissions and his fee. Oh, his code name: Sword. If you want his services go to swordissharp2003@yaho.com.cn. I really wanted the excuse to run his e-mail address.
Afternoon took me to the famous Temple of Heaven, a vast park devoted to the spring planting sacrifice. I always thought of the Chinese emperors as pampered and removed from the mundane but at least once a year they had to lead an elaborate ritual vital to the health of a densely populated agrarian society. The whole park is billed as the largest religious site in the world and after a couple of hours’ walking that doesn’t strike one as egregious..
In the evening I entrained to Kaifeng. The Beijing West Station, one of two serving the capital, is like most everything else in the huge center new, clean, efficient, and, unsurprisingly, crowded. It was easy to find my train but boarding entailed having to drag my suitcases down a long flight of stairs. Preparing for four months knocked the “lite” off of “pack” so this was a challenge. I had a “soft sleeper,” a closed-door cabin shared with three others, two bunks on each side (the “hard sleeper” is open-door with three bunks on each side, and cheapest are just plain seats). Thus I overnighted to Kaifeng where next I will pick up.

At last.  My passport is in hand, visa securely glued onto its pages (side note:  the new passports with pictures and quotes remind me of a patriotically-themed day planner). The baggage is packed.  Room at the Beijing Downtown Backpacker’s Association Hostel is reserved.  I’m just about on my way.

I’ve been working on course preparation (“prep” in the trade), but I figure I’ll be doing a lot of improvising as I adapt to the teaching environment.  As long as I have the Internet and PowerPoint… oh what the heck, even if I don’t I’ll be in CHINA!  At HENAN UNIVERSITY! 
People around my age will remember cartoons with the stock joke of someone digging a deep hole and popping out of the ground in China.  A surprised peasant wearing one of those crazy Asian sombreros was always part of the scene.  China seemed so far away, so exotic & mysterious—the epitome of foreign. 

No shovel for me, I go over the polar ice cap Newark to Beijing.  Allowing always for the Great Weird, I should walk into the Beijing haze on Sunday and make my next post from the other side of the world.

If you’re thinking about a trip to China (and a visit to Kaifeng), Continental is running a special introductory fare—much less than what I paid. http://www.cleveland.com/plaindealer/stories/index.ssf?/base/business-11/1233826236167920.xml&coll=2

 Take a look at Henan University and Kaifeng from the Google earth satellite at

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&tab=il

In October, 2007, I applied for professional leave and received permission spring, 2008.  Arrangements were nailed down with Henan University.

Paperwork for a work visa arrived three weeks ago.  China requires that a visa application is submitted in person either by the traveler or an agent.  Hiring someone to do this is standard practice. Google “China visa agent” and you will get millions of possibilities. 

I’m lucky.  My brother Steve lives in midtown Manhattan, about 30 blocks from the Chinese consulate.  More good fortune:  it’s the one designated for Ohio.

My good luck.  Not my brother’s.  An inveterate city walker, he trudged in the January cold to the consulate only to learn that the passport office keeps what we used to call “banker’s hours” (I reckon now it’s “bailout hours”).

The second trip resulted in rejection due to a couple of errors.  “Lines out the door,” he e-mailed.  “It’s like the fall of Saigon in there!  Who knew so many people wanted to go to China?”

At least he got an unexpected thrill.  When he called my mother on his walk home, she told him to walk over two blocks where he saw Flight 1549 floating on the Hudson River.

Visit three discovered that the paperwork from China was found to contain a critical error.  By that time I was in Florida visiting Mom.  Henan University was on break, the days to departure were dwindling, and a delay became a consideration.

Word came back that a tourist visa would be fine, but we had to wait out the Lunar (Chinese) New Year.

Back went my brother twice more, dropping off the passport and then finally picking it up.  From the consulate right across the street to Fed Ex. You know, FedEx, of the When it absolutely, positively has to be there overnight.

Well, the package had to be here overnight.  And it wasn’t.

A call to FedEx revealed that the plane had been delayed and my passport languished at their Memphis terminal.  Another call to a service representative told me to sit tight, they were working on it and would call.  Of course, no one did and several hours later I called to confirm that the package would absolutely, positively be a critical day late. 

I now understand the negative reviews of FedEx posted at http://www.rateitall.com/i-35526-fedex.aspx

Not to go into too much travel travail, but here’s something to ponder:  I had to reschedule with Continental.  I looked at Friday’s flights and both legs had plenty of empty seats—I counted over 50 on each.  But could I have one of the those seats?  Only for over a thousand dollars, whereas I could have seats on Saturday’s flights for less than $300 in fees.  This makes sense only to those who wish to understand why the airlines lose so much money with their irrational and illogical policies.

As I post this, I await passport and am now recalibrated to leave on Saturday, Feb. 7.  I hope that’s not too much excitement for everyone.  This Weblog is off to a squeaking start…