Beijing

Greetings from Kaifeng,,, but more on that later.
Due to the visa snafu, I had only two days in Beijing and was determined to score as much as I could of the Big Four. I’ll spare you the minute-by-minute for a general summary of my introduction to China.
Beijing is a very different place from what it was 20 or perhaps even 10 years ago. It looks as though a giant redevelopment reaper has scythed most of what was the center and replaced it with wide, i.e., very wide boulevards and gleaming new buildings. Maybe it is still enjoying the effects of the Olympic makeover. The fabled pollution was nothing more than a haze during my short stay, not nearly as bad as Los Angeles was when I lived there in the early seventies. Two days, however, is scarcely time enough to draw a valid conclusion.
I stayed at Beijing Downtown Backpackers Association. The good: location in historic neighborhood and very inexpensive (single room $25/night). Clientele is young. To describe the staff as helpful and friendly is to disservice it with understatement. The not-so-good: it’s a hostel, bare and spare, so if you want comfort and charm, look elsewhere. My room was nothing more than a bed, a table + bathroom. If you are interested go to http://www.backpackingchina.com.
The street is basically an alley about a car-and-a-half width. There are many restaurants and shops that seemed to be frequented more by Chinese than the few Westerners in the area. Even if you stay elsewhere the neighborhood is worth a visit if you have time. This is an example of the hutongs that once made up much of Beijing.
BTW the staffer with whom I had the most contact is a young woman called Apple. Apparently many Chinese who work with foreigners take an English name that either echoes their real name or they simply pick their favorite animal or food. We have a rough equivalent of this with all the self-applied appellations sported in hip-hop culture.
The Great Wall is an absolute must and the hostel offered access to a guided hike along a less-frequented section. We left before 7:00 AM for the 2 ½ drive. Climbing a steep set of steps, I realized this was going to be a lot tougher than I had anticipated. Thus ensued eight of the toughest kilometers I’ve ever walked. Admittedly with one bum knee and one hip replacement I ain’t what I useta be but the constant up and down over the undulating artifact ensured that by the end I was less aware of fulfilling a long-held desire than simply focusing on putting one protesting foot in front of the other. Take this hike only if you’re in excellent condition especially in the lower extremities.
Still the magnificence of the Wall was overwhelming. That the Chinese constructed this astounding fortification while Europe was emerging from the Middle Ages is a weighty testament to their engineering abilities.
I was shot for the evening. Still jet lagged, I had just enough energy to get dinner and a most gratifying massage. I went for legs only, then the masseuse offered me Chinese cup therapy. Oh well, in for a penny… this consisted of heating glass bowls and sticking them on my legs. Other than producing some bright round welts I’m not sure what the purpose is.
My second and last day in Beijing I checked two other items off the must-see list. In the morning it was the Forbidden City, as vast and spectacular as advertised. I will savor another viewing of The Last Emperor, the only film ever made on site. No more due to worries about the effects of the kliegs on the antique paint jobs.
Some kind of guide is necessary and while I was headed to the audio I was approached by an eager young man with good English. I took a chance and he proved personable and knowledgeable, well worth the $30 for both our admissions and his fee. Oh, his code name: Sword. If you want his services go to swordissharp2003@yaho.com.cn. I really wanted the excuse to run his e-mail address.
Afternoon took me to the famous Temple of Heaven, a vast park devoted to the spring planting sacrifice. I always thought of the Chinese emperors as pampered and removed from the mundane but at least once a year they had to lead an elaborate ritual vital to the health of a densely populated agrarian society. The whole park is billed as the largest religious site in the world and after a couple of hours’ walking that doesn’t strike one as egregious..
In the evening I entrained to Kaifeng. The Beijing West Station, one of two serving the capital, is like most everything else in the huge center new, clean, efficient, and, unsurprisingly, crowded. It was easy to find my train but boarding entailed having to drag my suitcases down a long flight of stairs. Preparing for four months knocked the “lite” off of “pack” so this was a challenge. I had a “soft sleeper,” a closed-door cabin shared with three others, two bunks on each side (the “hard sleeper” is open-door with three bunks on each side, and cheapest are just plain seats). Thus I overnighted to Kaifeng where next I will pick up.