Xi'an

And so, Xi’an… Barb and I took a soft sleeper from Kaifeng—two bunks on each side of a small compartment. We both had upper berths and Barb had a little trouble hoisting herself up. Xi’an is the capital of Shanxi province, which sits on Henan’s western border. It was an imperial capital, reaching a peak during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 C.E.). Xi’an appears to be flourishing. It’s a large, bustling center with a lot of modern buildings, clean streets, wide boulevards lined with smart shops, and well-dressed, busy people.
Let’s get the bad out of the way first. In a upscale fashion shop Barb entrusted me with her purse while she tried on some clothes. I looked at my cell phone and when I looked up, it was gone. We lost a little cash but more troublesome were the credit cards. We had to get an international calling card and cancel everything.

Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?  Well, we couldn't let a little setback ruin our visit. The highlight was the visit to the Qin Emperor’s tomb to view the famed terra cotta army, every bit as awesome—actually, much more—than expected. We hired a guide who pointed out a lot that we probably would have missed. We also visited the teahouse on the grounds for a formal tasting which was educational and fun. We took a pretty nice public bus out to the area but caught the local back—a jolting and much longer ride that wend through some villages.

Of course we liked the shopping Mecca that is the Muslim Quarter, an area of narrow streets and unending commerce. Barb likes the knock-off purses and has an eye for counterfeit quality. 

During our second foray Barb was experiencing significant pain so we stopped at the blind

massage place. It was twice as expensive as Kaifeng but she got a bone crackin’ make-me-into-rubber hour plus for US$7.50, still a deal.

When Barb was resting on our third day I ascended the old city walls, rented a bicycle, and made the 14 kilometer (9 mile) circuit all around the top. Traveling a medieval rampart past guard towers and over gates, looking over the old and new cities was one of my best experiences in Xi’an and indeed during my whole China visit.We stayed in the Shuyuen Youth Hostel which I recommend highly. Located next to the city’s South Gate with a patient, friendly, helpful young staff. A very good restaurant. I had coffee regularly for the first time in two months, great breakfasts, and even pizza, for which there was a wood-fired oven right off the restaurant. The hostel may be justified in its boast that the basement bar is one of the best in the city.We met an interesting character, Steve of Missouri, who might have been the only person in the hostel older than I. Every two years he comes to Xi’an and stays in the hostel for 55 days. Never saw him go out in my 4 days there, he just hung around talking with guests, visitors, and the staff.
We hooked up with Walt Hixson, a history prof from The Univesity of Akron who is teacing in Beijing on a Fulbright. We shared a marvelous meal at a Hong Kong-style restaurant—the barbequed eggplant was memorable—and returned together on the seven-hour train trip back to Kaifeng, Walt’s first China train ride. He’s delivering a lecturing on drugs and sex (!) to my American Popular Culture classes before he goes on to Qingdao for a conference.
This weekend: back to Beijing! I’m building up my frequent tracker kilometers!